Lake Garda

The lake belongs to the locals. Sirmione without a queue at the thermal baths, Malcesine with its souvenir shops shuttered, mist over the water and snow on Monte Baldo. Nights drop below freezing — the promenades are empty and the olive groves silver and still.

The lake wakes up: camellias and wisteria bloom, the lemon gardens of Limone reopen, and the first sails appear off the northern shore. Cyclists have the mountain passes to themselves, though at a good 13°C (55°F) the water is still for the hardy.

Full throttle. The Ora wind rises reliably from the south each afternoon and turns Torbole and Riva into Europe's windsurfing headquarters. The lidos are packed and so are the promenades at night — for quiet, head into the side valleys or up Monte Baldo early.

The best time for anyone who doesn't need to swim: the light turns soft, the olive harvest begins, and the osterie on the eastern shore have tables again without a reservation. By November the first hotels close and the lake turns grey and vast.